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some ludwig questions!


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ludwigvondrumcrazy
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used it on everything, the wraps & all metal parts, which is why I like it so much. It's versatile........

You will see two different types of the Flitz Metal Polish, a paste & a liquid. I use the liquid version as I feel it's easier to control since the paste has a tendency to get "squished" into places where I don't want it. I also follow up the Flitz with Maguire's Cleaner Wax, two coats for most metal parts, three on the Rims, more on the Shells.......................



I recondition Vintage, and some not so Vintage, Drums, Stands, Hardware, etc. on a daily basis, usually six or more hours a day, and found a few things indispensible for doing this sort of work. One of my main "tools" are popsicle sticks with a close second pipe cleaners. I also use Scotch Brite Pads (cut into small cubes) for tension / key-rods threads, as well as detailing brushes, some metal bristle, some soft nylon, that are cheap and save a lot of effort. I have found nothing better in removing wax out of nooks & crannies, especially in cast in logos or knurled parts, than the soft nylon bristle detailing brushes. I get what I can by hand using a popsicle stick or toothpick wrapped in a Scott Shop type paper towel and what remains is easily taken care of with a few strokes of the brush. One thing I don't use at all are steel wool pads.....



This next shot is just to show (top left) the brush I use the most, known as a fingernail brush........................



One other item I can't do without is old drumheads that I use for "parts trays," which allow you to move parts around easy and keep things organized. I've found that the thicker / heavier ones are preferred since they don't sag under the weight of the parts which causes the parts to slide to the center. Old snare side / reso heads work great for use as "dust covers," especially helpful when you get a number of "active" trays since they let you see what is what at a glance but clear, thin, plastic bags work just as well........................



Time for "Wax Off"..................

LVDC
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edgewood_drummer92
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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where can i get the Maguire's Cleaner Wax? Thanks for the info by the way.
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ludwigvondrumcrazy
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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

edgewood_drummer92 wrote:
Where can i get the Maguire's Cleaner Wax?


You're more than welcome edgewood.................

The Maguire's Cleaner Wax is an easy one to find and is readily available at most "Chain-type" Auto Parts Stores as well as large Box Stores that sell Auto Care products. It usually runs between $5 & $6 a bottle.
The Cleaner wax is designed to remove light scratches & swirl marks from clear coats so actually serves a another purpose other than sealing everything up for protection. It's only one part of a three or four step system designed by Maguire's so I checked out the other "steps" just to see if they would be ok for use on drums. While the Cleaner Wax is safe for most surfaces, the other steps weren't so I felt they weren't appropriate without a lot of hassle trying to remember what type is ok for what? Like the Flitz, I opt for the Liquid version as I feel it gives me better control over a paste. I also apply very thin coats and dab / pat it on over threaded holes and areas that have styling / detail lines as well as in cast in logos & the like. If you wipe it on in these types of areas you tend to rake / squeege wax out of the rag ending up with waaay tooo much in areas that are hard to get the wax out of anyway. Like on Swivel Nuts, I just hold them on the top & bottom with my forefinger & thumb and sorta wrap the wax rag (small piece of Scott Shop type Paper Towel) around the part then lightly squeeze them to apply the wax. By holding them this way you prevent wax from getting down in the threads but also keep wax from getting on the very top. Before moving the part to the tray I simply grab it from the side & lightly touch the top of the Swivel Nut (open hole with threads) to the rag to get a little wax on that area..........

Here's an example of how parts look when dabbing / patting on the wax using light pressure. If I would have wiped the wax on the 3 styling / detail lines along the backs / ridges of the Lugs would get filled up with wax, which is why I commonly refer to these Ludwig lines as "wax traps."



When removing wax from "wax traps" it's best to work the wax out towards the open ends as opposed to going towards the ends that stop with right angles, like the flanges on the Ludwig Lugs shown above. If you go towards the "wrong end" you end up just jamming dried wax into an area that is hard to get it out of anyway so create more work for yourself. In areas where right angles do come together a popsicle stick wrapped in a rag or paper towel works wonders in getting all the wax out, Flitz too. I prefer the heavy Scott Shop Paper Towels for this work and, while this may seem more expensive than using "regular" PT's it actually works out cheaper. I've found that I have to toss out a piece of the Scott type because it's dirty and not because it's ripped all to heck. Due to the heavier fibers of the Scott PT's they also do a better job in much less time due to the fact that they can "grab" crud & wax better than the lighter PT's.....................

LVDC
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edgewood_drummer92
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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright thanks, i got a round badge gretsch kit for free from my school and im gonna clean it up, replace the bd hoops, the bottom rim for the tom and then use it as a second kit, so this will help a lot. Thanks again
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ludwigvondrumcrazy
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once again, you're more than welcome, edgewood............

Always remember, when doing this sort of work, that these things take a little time to do it up right and, while you can usually make a big difference in the appearance of a Kit, or Drum, at times things might not come back as good as we may have hoped they would. When this happens, remember, "It is what it is"................

Good luck!
LVDC
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edgewood_drummer92
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do u use the flitz micro fiber polishing cloth? Would a reg rag work just as well???
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ludwigvondrumcrazy
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While I do have, and use, the Flitz micro fiber cloth I've found that the cheaper, no name, micro fiber cloths work just as well, so does a chamois. I only use the polishing cloths for final polishing with Flitz & Wax application & removal being done with the Scott Shop type Paper Towels, the best tool in my arsenal...............

If you buy some Flitz from the site I provided the link to you should be prompted during checkout to buy some micro fiber cloths in a four pack. I highly recommend getting some as they are well worth the price, which is cheaper than you will find them elsewhere.......................

LVDC
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ludwigvondrumcrazy
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 10:21 am    Post subject: Paper Towel Madness Reply with quote

edgewood, one thing that I only touched on but are a very important part of any cleaning project and that would be;

Paper towels, while they may seem insignificant, are where it all happens and are the most critical tool you will be using. At first I tried the cheap route using run of the mill PT's for cleaning & flitzing applications and the more expensive Scott Towels only to remove wax & as a polishing rag. One day, while working a stainless Kit , I grabbed the Scott and started flitzing a stainless shell and was floored by not only how much better my results were, but by the fact that I got those results in far less time than using the cheap products. I switched to Scott and never looked back.............

Here's how I do my paper towels for flitzing & waxing.
I remove two towels from the roll leaving the perforation intact, fold them on top of each other so it looks like one towel then cut them down the middle, usually from the perf. end as it's a little easier. I then put the two cut pieces on top of each other and cut those across the middle (narrow part) thus ending up with quarters after separating the perforations. If you look in the shot below you will see some of these quarters, I stagger them on the stack as it makes it easier to pick them up individually when wearing the vinyl gloves. Cutting these is something I do during "off times" so I don't have to stop what I'm doing while working the parts....................

When using them, I take a quarter, fold it into yet another quarter so end up with an 1/8th when it is all said & done, a very easy size to use when working small parts. When one side of my 1/8th gets cruddy I flip it to the clean side, when that side gets dirty I open the first fold and fold it back on itself dirty side in and have been known to even open it up totally when those two sides get dirty and use the four surfaces that have been folded inside. But this all depends on what parts I'm doing and how much black crud soaks thru. If you try this with even a good "store bought" PT you will find that you end up with a soggy mess in a very short period of time that tears easily whereas I usually have to throw the Scott away because it's dirty as opposed to it falling apart, although they do lose some effectiveness after the fibers become totally saturated with Flitz....................



When applying wax to small parts it's best to get the folded quarter (1/8th) fairly saturated with Wax before you start, working it into the PT so it's not just laying on the surface of the PT. This allows you "more control" so you can pat / dab it on and if I will be waxing both shells & small parts during the same session will do the shells first so my applicator gets nice & soaked in for the smaller Lugs, Swivel Nuts etc. Another tip, if you will be waxing again later that same session simply hold the wax applicator PT in your hand while removing your vinyl / latex glove turning it (the glove) inside out so your applicator is stored inside keeping it from getting dried out.....

Bottom line, you get better results with less effort with the Scott Shop PT's and when all things are considered probably come out spending less money because they, just like the Energizer Bunny, keeps going & going.................

LVDC
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sbowman128675
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i wanna referb a old slinger snare, that would be *Biznich*
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edgewood_drummer92
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok ill get to that as soon as im done building up my catalina birch kit (which shouldn't take very long, just need a splash, 2nd crash, and a new ride) Do you use the flitz on the inside of the shell too, cause that seems to me like it would harm the drum.
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ludwigvondrumcrazy
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

edgewood_drummer92 wrote:
Do you use the flitz on the inside of the shell too, cause that seems to me like it would harm the drum.


No, only on the wrap & metal parts. Not to confuse matters, but as soon as I finish up a couple of Supra-Phonic's I'll be doing a Natural Maple Kit and will use the Flitz on both the inside & outside of those shells since both surfaces are lacquered.......................

As with any polish, if in doubt as to it's compatibility with whatever you want to use it on try it somewhere like the small area under a Lug, Mount etc. to see how it will react. That is why I like Flitz so much, it has no Ammonia or abrasives and is safe for many different materials so you don't have to worry about keeping it off of nearby surfaces as much as you would with many other polishes..............

P.S. Be sure to thoroughly read the directions on the bottle................

LVDC
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edgewood_drummer92
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thanks again, like i said i have a gretsch round badge that i got for free that im going to fix up and this will help a lot.
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Uncle Flash
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I find the best cleaning cloths are old and soft t shirts I'm not sure any of the specialised cloths are necessary. Sorry if that sounds controversial it wasn't mean't to.
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