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Re-hardening wood tips



 
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Mbuckner
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Joined: 17 Jun 2004
Posts: 2


PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2004 2:11 pm    Post subject: Re-hardening wood tips Reply with quote

A few years ago, while making a knife handle out of exotic wood, I stumbled upon a way to re-harden mushy wood tips with Cyanoacrylate (super glue):

Begin by sanding the last couple of inches of the stick, removing the old finish. This is best done using a drill press or portable drill motor. Chuck the stick up and use 100 to 220 grit sand paper. At this point you can also do minor recontouring of the tip, sand out rim shot dents, etc.

Go to a model airplane hobby shop and purchase a 1 oz. bottle of super thin CyA. Most have an inexpensive house brand. (Almost all carry a line called Zap, but it is a bit pricey.) Don't waste your money on the dime store stuff, much of it is of inferior quality.

Wipe all the sanding dust, etc. off the stick. A cloth dampened in rubbing alcohol works well. Allow the stick to dry completely before applying the CyA. You can either apply the CyA with a cheap, throw-away acid or epoxy brush, or dip it into the CyA bottle. I prefer dipping. Dip the stick
briefly into the bottle, then tap the excess off. A piece of waxed paper or Saran wrap placed on the work bench table works well for this.

Let the CyA harden completely - it will usually fire within a minute or so. If you're the impatient type (which many drummers are) the hobby shops carry a spray bottle of accelerator which will cause it to fire immediately.
However, you will get a better coating and more penetration into the wood if you let it fire on its own.

After the CyA is completely cured, sand the stick with 600 grit paper and, if necessary, repeat the process. Be careful not to apply too many coats since this can cause the coating to chip off. When you are satisfied with the appearance, finish it off with 1000 to 1500 wet or dry paper.

The CyA will produce a very hard coating but, more importantly, it wicks in between the wood fibers, replacing the lignin as when the sticks were new.

A note of caution: Use this process only in a well-ventilated area since, when the CyA fires it gives off nasty fumes. Also, for God's sake, be careful with this stuff - it bonds human skin even better than wood. It is better to do several sticks at a time since, once you contaminate the CyA it will eventually set up inside the container.
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Jonesie67
Growing Lion



Joined: 26 Dec 2003
Posts: 877

Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2004 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

uhh.... its just easier to get new sticks.
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Zildjian: A Custom 19" Crash, A 14" New Beat Hats, A 16" Medium Thin Crash, A 10" Splash, A 20" Medium Ride
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jak
Lion King



Joined: 18 Mar 2004
Posts: 1084

Location: On my azz

PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2004 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, for what sticks cost I think it will be easier to just buy a new pair, you can get cheap sticks for around 5 bucks and by time you buy a bottle of glue (and possibly some sandpaper) its not worth it. Plus when you sand out rimshot marks or reshape the tip it kinda defeats the purpose of using a certain size of stick since you're altering the sticks overall size and weight.

By the way, if somone does try this make sure your face is not right above the stick when applying the glue because the fumes from the glue will burn your eyes like hell.
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Doomed to Drum
Grizzly Bear



Joined: 01 Apr 2004
Posts: 750

Location: England

PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2004 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeh, seems like an awful lot of effort, with a high chance to ruin the balance and feel of our sticks, but if you like it, hey, go for it, if you have the time and equipment, should be fun to do it
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zildjiandrummer15
Little Guppy



Joined: 17 Jun 2004
Posts: 39


PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2004 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, buying sticks will take less time, but hey, if you really need to, its a great tip for people who dont have a music store nearby
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jimjohn
Newbie Alert



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
Posts: 3


PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2004 5:35 am    Post subject: Re: Re-hardening wood tips Reply with quote

thank you for your tip. i have a lot of sticks that i was going to throw out just because the tips are bad. i remove the nylon for a softer sound and after a few gigs the tips are bad. Rockers can't relate to this all they know is noise.





Mbuckner wrote:
A few years ago, while making a knife handle out of exotic wood, I stumbled upon a way to re-harden mushy wood tips with Cyanoacrylate (super glue):

Begin by sanding the last couple of inches of the stick, removing the old finish. This is best done using a drill press or portable drill motor. Chuck the stick up and use 100 to 220 grit sand paper. At this point you can also do minor recontouring of the tip, sand out rim shot dents, etc.

Go to a model airplane hobby shop and purchase a 1 oz. bottle of super thin CyA. Most have an inexpensive house brand. (Almost all carry a line called Zap, but it is a bit pricey.) Don't waste your money on the dime store stuff, much of it is of inferior quality.

Wipe all the sanding dust, etc. off the stick. A cloth dampened in rubbing alcohol works well. Allow the stick to dry completely before applying the CyA. You can either apply the CyA with a cheap, throw-away acid or epoxy brush, or dip it into the CyA bottle. I prefer dipping. Dip the stick
briefly into the bottle, then tap the excess off. A piece of waxed paper or Saran wrap placed on the work bench table works well for this.

Let the CyA harden completely - it will usually fire within a minute or so. If you're the impatient type (which many drummers are) the hobby shops carry a spray bottle of accelerator which will cause it to fire immediately.
However, you will get a better coating and more penetration into the wood if you let it fire on its own.

After the CyA is completely cured, sand the stick with 600 grit paper and, if necessary, repeat the process. Be careful not to apply too many coats since this can cause the coating to chip off. When you are satisfied with the appearance, finish it off with 1000 to 1500 wet or dry paper.

The CyA will produce a very hard coating but, more importantly, it wicks in between the wood fibers, replacing the lignin as when the sticks were new.

A note of caution: Use this process only in a well-ventilated area since, when the CyA fires it gives off nasty fumes. Also, for God's sake, be careful with this stuff - it bonds human skin even better than wood. It is better to do several sticks at a time since, once you contaminate the CyA it will eventually set up inside the container.
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I do a lot of brush work and i am looking for
a product that used to be on the market call
"ruff coat" or something like that. it gave
texture to the share head. Does any one know where i can get a can or anything like it?
jim johnson
san diego
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